Caity and Nik's Travels

Monday, February 13, 2006

The Milford Track

Te Anau Downs - Clinton Hut (1st Feb)

We catch the boat across Te Anau Lake to the start of the track at Glade Wharf. Only 5km today so any easy start. As we get off the boat we have to step into buckets of disinfectant - it's a bit like being at the school swimming pool again. They're all concerned about a fresh water alage called Didymio.

It's another beautiful day - the wettest place on earth and there's been no rain for nearly 3 weeks! But the forecast is for rain and even thunder storms in the next 3 days. It only takes 1 and half hours to get to the 1 st Hut. There are 2 bunk rooms with 20 people in each. Rest of the day is spent mucking about by the Clinton River- Nik goes swimming and I fall in!!

There's a distinct lack of facilities. No shops. No phones. No central heating. No T.V. No fridge/freezer and no hot running water for a bath or shower. Being clean is just what you want at the end of the day. You're hot and sweaty and above all you've covered yourself in a double layer of cream - 1) Sun tan lotion. Even on a cloudy day it's essential coz of the gap in the ozone layer - the weather forecasts even have a Peter Snow style swing-o-meter telling you how aggressive the UV rays will be on a day to day basis. 2) Insect repellant. The only place to get clean is in the water pools created by the river along the way. The water is so inviting. Crystal clear. No Sediment or mud. Everybody drinks it without having to boil or add iodine. BUT it's about 1C away from freezing. Some of the water is run off from a melting glacier. But sleeping in all that sweat and grime !! ?? There's a 60/40 split in our band of walkers between those who're prepared to put up with the discomfort in their sleeping bags and those who'll strip off and go for a swim. I'm a swimmer. One of the pools is about 600 m above sea level. So there's a bit of wind chill to contend with too. I only lasted 5 seonds in that pool and for the next hour my arms and legs felt like and ice creams.

Clinton Hut - Mintaro Hut (2nd Feb)

Up hill all day! We've followed the Clinton River all the ways to it's source at Mintaro Lake (600 metres above sea level - we started at 100). I'm knackered and have a kip before supper. Tonight we're in a bunk room for only 6 - I'm the only girl. There are 3 Israel boys just out of the army. Each day they leave after everyone else and the march past on the track to arrive first! They went up to the top of the mountain (tomorrows walk) and back this afternoon!!

At supper I realise that there appears to be distinct groups appearing around each table- the over 40's, the Austrailian and New Zealands, and the International table of Belgiums, Germans, Israelis and us. We play an Isreali version of Uno which they call Taki. Most of the rules were simlar, but we taught them some of our more viscious made up ones


Mintaro Hut - Dumpling Hut via Mackinnon Pass (3rd Feb)

The Big Day - the Up and Over. We start the day at 600m go up a further 500m and then down 900m! The up is not too bad and the views are spectacular. Especially becuase the daily rain forecast has still yet to materialise. There's a shelter at the top with "The Loo with a View" -there's a window in the door so you can look all the way down Clinton Valley.

4 Hours of going down is exhausting and our legs are really hurting. But we walk down walkways and steps next to a beautiful waterfall. It really is amazing.

The people you meet ! This really cool Belgium couple are on the trip. Jo and Suzi. It turns out he's is the former Belgium national table football champion. He won it two years in a row. He's was also the European runner up two years in a row. He was telling about all the money he made out of hustling people in pubs and bars - but when he got famous (it's a big thing in Belgium) nobody would play him coz they all recognised him. He used to practice for eight hours a day - when he was meant to be in school. He's a facilities manager for Johnson and Johnson now. That's him giving it the thumbs up.

Last Day. Dumpling Hut - Sandfly Point and Milford Cruise (4th Feb)

My legs are hurting today and there's another 18km to do today. But it should all be gently down hill. As with all the other days we only see the same 10 people all day - those that leave at the same time and walk at the same speed as us. The Isreali boys were still having breakfast as we left, but stormed past by mid morning!

Finally after 6 hours of walking and many beautiful waterfalls later we've finished!!!!! We get the boat over to Milford and then it's on to the passenger ship for our well deserved luxury overnight cruise with 3 course meal!

Float Plane

Te Anau (28th - 31st Jan)

Back in Te Anau, we spent a few days chilling out before doing the Milford Track. We went for a trip over the mountains in THIS!!


These trips are very popular all over NZ, it's called going "Flightseeing."

Don't we look great! Our pilot could talk to us through these headphones, pointing out parts of the Milford Track for us.

Out the front of the plane.

The Southern Alps.

Milford Sound out to the Tasman Sea.

Sunday, February 12, 2006

Kayaking Doubtful Sound

Doubtful Sound (25th - 27th Jan)

5pm on 24th Jan we have our meeting with Bill at the Fiordland Wilderness Experience headquarters - His home! We're told about the sandflies, the rain and the ablution etiquette in the camps. We're up at 5am and meet our guide Will and our fellow kayakers - all are very nice. One of them is from St Albans. His sister used to own a restaurant on the high street. She's great friends of Robert and Sophie Shillinglaw and we've met her! It's a small world.

After a fab trip we arrive at Deep Cove the head of Doubtful Sound. Will hands out our kit - long sleeved top, wet suit, fleece, wind proof jacket, life jacket, sun hat, wet suit gloves! I'm guessing it could get really cold and wet. We're told to keep our socks on even in the kayak, to stop the sneaky sandflies who get in under the spray deck wanting a free ride.



After much faffing we're on the water. Nik is in the back controlling the steering with foot peddles. I'm in the front supposedly in control of the pace. Wow it's so beautiful (check out the photos).


Sandflies ... never heard of them before coming to ENZED. Never really experienced them till coming to Doubtful Sound. They're right little bastards. Or should I say bitches ... coz it's only the females that bite. Not that if there's one on me I'll check out what sex it is before trying to kill it. They're worse than mosquitoes - on the scratch factor scale their bites are more itchy and they last longer. They other down side is they run covert operations. Unlike mosquitoes you can't hear them when they're around. Sandflies are silent. No buzzing noise. No warning. Just a painful bite.

Hawaii 5-0
We should have explained Caity and I are in a double kayak. You'll spot us at the back of the group. That's cos we're slow at kayaking. However ... we can and do put on a turn of speed every so often to catch up. We have a secret codename that signals it's time to speed up. We call it
"H-5-0ing" as in doing a Hawaii - 5 - 0. The way it works is you imagine yourself as one of the blokes in the opening credits of the show and more importantly hum the theme tune over and over in the back of your head. Works every time.

It's our third and final day on Doubtful Sound and a pod of dolphins has just swum right by us.

Also - seals, blue penguins and another small pod of dolphins!